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The Emerald cut

January 31, 2017/ BY Frank van Poorten

Origin and history

The Emerald cut diamond is one of the first and oldest cuts of diamonds and other precious stones.

The name of this cutting is taken from the gemstone Emerald. This green gemstone has been cut in a square shape in order keep as much left from the rock as possible.

The history of this cutting is more than 500 years old. Emeralds were very vulnerable and difficult to cut because this gemstone is very soft. A way was sought to look for a way to polish the stone without the stone getting damaged. Then they didn’t have the knowledge and tools of today.

Development of the cut

In the years when art deco was popular, from 1920 to 1939, the Emerald was quite popular. More and more facets were added and in 1940 the modern emerald cut received its present form. Today it is mainly a cut that shows you that the stone is clean and has a beautiful colour. The cut leaves no room for imperfections., these can clearly been seen in the reflection in the stone.

The facets in an emerald cut diamond

Emerald cut diamond gets’ step facets(step cut).

This name comes from the stepwise positioning of the facets, three rows of steps above and 3 below to

the stone.


The Emerald has 57 facets that are subdivided into 25 on the top, 24, at the bottom and 8 facets on the girdle.

The table width is very large and bright and inclusions are clearly visible. A high quality stone in colour and purity is very important


The proportions of the emerald can vary widely

The most common ratio in the cut is 1: 5 what makes the stone rectangular.

This ratio is often used in rings with emerald stones. Women fingers look longer and more elegant with this shape.

The shape of the cut is close to the natural shape of the diamond, and therefor relatively little loss of weight  from the stone. Therefor the price of this diamond shape makes the emerald also very popular.

Mistakes of the emerald-cut

As with many diamond cuts the Bow Tie effect happens in Emerald cuts.

If the step facets are not completely right, the light is not reflected in the proper way, which can cause dark spots.

This picture clearly shows the left and right sides of the table with dark spots. This will not be taken along in the quality requirements. It is a matter of taste.

The value of an Emerald

The value of every diamond is determined by the four C’s:

  • Carat: This is the weight of the stone, 0.02 grams per carat
  • Color: From white to a yellowish hue, the color of champagne
  • Clarity: This is determined by the number of imperfections or inclusions in the diamond
  • Cut: The quality of the cut: Proportions, finish and symmetry of the polishing.

Famous Emeralds

Emeralds make the most beautiful and elegant engagement and wedding rings. It is no wonder diamond emerald rings are very much beloved by celebrities such as Angelina Jolie and Kim Kardashian. 

7 famous diamond emerald rings you need to see


Royal Coster Diamonds