The timeless brilliant is the most common diamond cut for engagement rings. This is of course because of the beautiful sparkling and the fame of this round cut. For those who want to stand out from the crowd, the oval cut diamond is a good alternative. Like a brilliant, an oval cut diamond has 57 facets. The difference is that an oval appears more elegant and bigger than a brilliant diamond of the same weight.
For centuries, diamond workers polished diamonds in oval shapes. However, the oval cut as we know today was only created in 1957 by Lazare Kaplan. Kaplan came from a family of jewelers and diamond workers. He worked very closely with his uncle Abraham Tolkowsky. Tolkowsky was (and is) famous for creating the modern brilliant: the “Ideal Cut”. Kaplan became well-known for his ability to cleave diamonds. This is a method to cut diamonds with fractures and low clarity into smaller, yet clearer diamonds.
Kaplan specialized himself in improving diamonds that everyone else thought were unusable or worthless. His abilities as cleaver gave him the opportunity to transform these diamonds into some of the most beautiful polished diamonds from that era.
The name Kaplan was already known, but he wasn’t famous yet. This changed when Kaplan created the “Modern Oval Cut”. This brought him a spot in the Hall of Fame of jewelers. Nowadays, oval cut diamonds are one of the most beautiful and sparkling cuts in the world.
For a brilliant cut diamond, the ideal ratio is 1:1. For an oval diamond, the ideal ratio varies from 1:1.35 to 1:1.50. There is no golden standard for this. I can tell you that long and thin ovals appear sharper and more striking, while short broad ovals look more smooth and elegant. For a ring with multiple ovals, I would recommend slender ovals.
Every oval cut diamond has a “bow-tie effect”. This is a dark discoloration in the center of the stone. This is an effect of the facets placement and the reflection of light within the diamond. Often a light bow tie effect will improve an oval cut’s beauty. However, when this effect is too strong, it has a negative consequence – it makes the diamond less pretty. The best way to find out how much of a bow tie is too much is just visual inspection and personal preference.
Oval cuts appear bigger because the table of an oval is 10% larger of the one from a brilliant of the same weight. It is, therefore, not that strange that people often opt for an oval diamond instead of a round one. Even though oval diamonds are a bit rarer than “Princess cuts”, they aren’t necessarily more expensive than the square cut. Ovals and Princesses have a similar polishing loss. The polisher aims to lose as little diamond as possible when creating an oval or a princess.
An oval has almost the same sparkle as a brilliant but looks bigger than a brilliant with the same weight. Ovals are considered feminine and elegant. At Royal Coster Diamonds, we have the most beautiful wedding and engagement rings with this diamond cut. For example this engagement solitaire ring with oval diamond or contact a diamond consultant for more rings with oval cut diamonds.
As a diamond polisher at the oldest diamond polishing factory in the world I've seen, cut and polished a lot of diamonds. I'd love to share my knowledge of diamonds with you.
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