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The 4 C’s highlighted: the second C, Cut

March 31, 2017/ BY Frank van Poorten

The second one of the four C’s in this sequence is the Cut, or shape of a diamond. The shape is important to determine the quality of the polished diamond. The shape a diamond will become depends on the diamond quality and the amount of material loss in the process from rough to polished.

Diamond cuts

A good diamond worker can cut a diamond in almost every shape imaginable. However, it is important that the cutter keeps the way the light reflects in mind. This is why there are several preferred cuts: the brilliant, emerald, princess, marquise, pear, heart, oval, cushion, Asscher and baguette.

Brilliant diamond cut

The most popular and common cut is the brilliant. Almost 95% of all diamonds are this particular shape. This is because the brilliant diamond has the most value and reflects the light in the best way possible. Another reason a brilliant is so popular is because it is suitable to use in most kinds of diamond jewelry.

The Royal 201 is a patented brilliant by Royal Coster Diamonds. A regular brilliant has already a beautiful sparkle with 57 facets, but the Royal 201 exceeds this on every level. This brilliant has no less than 201 facets, making it the most faceted diamond cut in the world. You can see the difference between a regular brilliant and our Royal 201 in a free tour through our diamond polishing factory.

Brilliant cut diamond rings

Emerald diamond cut

The emerald cut is named after the well-known green stone that is cut often in this way. The emerald has a reputation of being a luxurious diamond. This is because any small imperfections are highly visible in this kind of cut, which makes the diamond less valuable. For this diamond shape are therefore quite pure and luxurious diamonds used. Which come with a matching price tag. The emerald cut engagement ring is very popular by celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Angelina Jolie.

emerald cut diamond rings

Princess diamond cut

The second most popular diamond shape is the princess cut. This square cut with straight lines has a beautiful sparkle. The angular shape makes this type of diamond great for usage in different kinds of jewelry. The princess diamond cut can often be found in diamond engagement rings, earrings and bracelets.

princess cut diamond ring

Marquise diamond cut

Named after the Marquise of Pompadour (the mistress of Louis 14th) is the marquise cut. The pointed ends of this cut optimize the light reflection within the diamond, but also make the diamond to appear bigger. The marquise is almost exclusively used in rings, sometimes combined with small stones surrounding it. 

marquise cut diamond ring

Pear diamond cut

The pear cut, or pear shaped diamond is also often referred to as a teardrop diamond. This cut is actually a combination of the brilliant round shape and a marquise. The pear shaped diamond is loved by those who love elegance. A pear shaped diamond on a ring can make the finger to appear longer. In earrings and necklaces pear cut diamond are also very popular because they accentuate the length of the neck.

pear cut diamond ring

Heart diamond cut

The heart-shaped diamond is a variant of the pear cut. This is perhaps the hardest diamond shape to create, because it takes advanced skills to create symmetry. It’s no secret that a heart stands for love and that diamonds are the international symbol for love as well. Therefore, heart-shaped diamonds are very popular gifts. You can find heart shapes in any kind of diamond jewelry.

Heart cut diamond ring

Oval diamond cut

Oval diamonds have a reputation of prestige and luxury. This is because many famous diamonds are cut in an oval shape – the Koh-I-Noor for example. On the other hand are oval diamonds in rings often worn by woman with short or wide fingers. The oval shape makes the fingers look more slender; in contrast to for example the brilliant cut. This gives someone an overall more luxurious look. Moreover, in terms of sparkle, the oval diamonds come closer to the round cut than any other shape. Little of the brilliance is lost.

Oval cut diamond ring

Cushion diamond cut

The cushion cut is sort of a combination of the princess and oval cut. This diamond shape is often described as a rectangle or square with rounded corners. The cushion-shaped cut is over 100 years old and was especially fashionable in the 19th century. Then again in 1930 the shape became popular again. Nowadays a cushion cut diamond is often seen as classic and romantic, distinguishing from modern polishing techniques.

Cushion cut diamond ring

Radiant diamond cut

Like the princess, the radiant cut is square, but like the cushion diamond, the radiant has round corners. The way the radiant is cut, is similar to the emerald cut, combined with the way facets are created on a brilliant. The radiant has no less than 70 facets. You could say the radiant is actually a combination of many different cuts. In recent years the radiant has become increasingly popular in diamond engagement rings. Often these are solitary rings. Nevertheless, baguette shaped diamonds are often places next to the radiant diamond to give the diamond ring a more luxurious look.

Radiant cut diamond

Asscher diamond cut

The Asscher cut originates from Dutch soil. In 1902 the Asscher brothers have cut a square diamond the same way an emerald is cut, creating a completely new diamond cut. Due to the large square table (top of the diamond), the color and clarity of the diamond are beautifully shown.

Asscher cut diamond ring

Baguette diamond

Like the cushion diamond, the baguette is also a so-called ‘fancy cut’. This cut was especially popular in the Art Deco period. Baguettes are rarely the main stone in any diamond jewelry but often placed to the center stone.

Baguette cut diamond rings

The standard

Each cut has its own standard. The closer the cut is to the standard, the better it is qualified and the higher the value of the diamond. The diamond can be qualified as:

  • Good
  • Medium
  • Poor

The standard for the brilliant is as follows:

  • size of the table: 56% of the girdle
  • height of the crown: 11-17% of the whole and at an angle of 34.5°
  • Size of the girdle: very thin to medium
  • corner pavilions: 8°

If a brilliant cut meets the requirements above, its gets qualified as ‘good’. When a diamond is grinded badly, this can lead to a loss in value of 6 to 15%. For bad cuttings even more! A diamond with poor grinding gets therefore qualified as ‘poor’.

The sparkle

It is important that the angles of a brilliant are cut at a proper degree. This is related to the reflection of light within the diamond. When the corners are too steep, light gets out from the sides. When the corners are too flat, the light continues to reflect until it decays in dead corners. The light is lost and leaks through the bottom of the crown. If the diamond is cut properly, the light reflects in the ideal way. The light travels through the table, the pavilions and the bezels of the top straight up. This creates an unsurpassed, perfect brilliant sparkle.

The weight lost

The rough diamond that is found is delivered as such. During the polishing process, about 60% of the raw material is lost. This is due to the sawing of the stone, cutting the diamond and the grinding and polishing work. This may seem like a waste, but actually because of the grinding loss, the diamond becomes even more beautiful and valuable.

uncut diamonds

Smooth

The finishing of the cut will affect the price. The cutter must ensure that the facets are beautifully ‘sweet’. This means that the facets have no cutting stripes and have a nice smooth finish.

All diamond cuts are possible

Besides the best-known diamond cut, there are a lot of other shapes possible to cut a diamond into. Our diamond cutters have truly mastered the art of diamond polishing. You can see them creating diamond cuts in our free tour around the diamond polishing factory and learn more about the 4 C’s of diamond valuation. Our experienced guides love to tell you everything about the 4 C’s as well. Do you want to cut a diamond yourself? Assign for our Diamond Masterclass. You’ll learn all there is to know about diamond cutting. 

> De 4 C’s highlighted: the first C, Carat
> De 4 C’s highlighted: the third C, Color
> De 4 C’s highlighted: the fourth C, Clarity

 

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